How To Use Dry Transfer Decals

Member since
January 2004
From: Canada, eh?
12,816 posts

Posted by doctorwayne on Th, January 10, 2008 ane:28 AM

Dry transfers and decals each have their pros and cons. Decals require a gloss or semi-gloss surface for the all-time results, which involves an extra stride if you normally paint with apartment paints. When yous're finished lettering, some sort of a clear overspray is required to make the decal blend-in with its background. On the plus side, there is a wide variety of decal lettering available, and well-nigh let an extended catamenia for aligning or repositioning the individual elements. With the use of setting solutions, decals can be easily used on curved or irregular surfaces, and information technology's easy to change individual digits in dimensional data if you lot're trying to duplicate a detail image.

Dry transfers are all-time suited to flat surfaces, such equally carsides, although it is possible to apply them to more irregular surfaces with some care. Withal, y'all usually get only ane chance to position things where and how you want them: once on the surface of the model, the lettering can't be moved. You can remove it by dabbing at information technology with the sticky side of some masking tape, only the lettering is not salvageable. Once the lettering is properly positioned on the model, the tissue bankroll newspaper is placed over information technology and the lettering is "burnished" by thoroughly rubbing with either a burnishing tool or a medium pencil. Even a fingernail is useful to burnish forth panel seams or next to raised details. When applying dry transfers on irregular surfaces, similar boxcar ends, it'due south helpful to support the car vertically while you work - I find that placing the auto, with a soft cloth below the lower end, in a heavy beer mug works well. Even so, getting the correct placement can be difficult, peculiarly because the carrier pic for dry transfers is only partially transparent. I notice that an easier solution is to apply the end markings to some clear decal film, overspray it with Dulcote, and so apply it as you would any decal. Of course, at present you're back into that gloss or semi-gloss surface prep. In places where you can't fully burnish the lettering, decal setting solution volition also prepare dry transfers. This is particularily useful when lettering "wood" cars: every bit with a decal, slit the lettering where it spans joints between boards (use a sharp bract, so as to not tear the lettering), and then apply a potent decal setting solution, such as Solvaset. Again, as with decals, several applications may be required. The big plus for dry transfers is that there is no decal film to hide. Even and so, a clear overspray is a skillful idea, particularily if you plan on weathering with h2o-based washes, as the lettering is somewhat "waxy" and repels water. Here are a few examples: